Búp Khoai Kho – A Rustic Dish with the Rich Flavors of Phu Tho Countryside

In the Vietnamese soul, traditional dishes are an inseparable part of life. When far from home, the taste of these dishes tugs at the heartstrings, creating a nostalgic feeling. For those in the Thanh Thuy region of Phu Tho, perhaps the most memorable culinary delight is the “búp khoai kho,” a simple and familiar dish from their humble childhood, rich with the flavors of the riverside fields.

When talking about “búp khoai” (potato buds), many might think of sweet potato buds, but in reality, the buds used for this dish come from a type of tuber that grows vertically (also known as “bẹ” or “đài khoai”), such as different varieties of potatoes like trứng (egg), riềng (ginger), lủi, and tím (purple) potatoes. These potatoes are easy to grow and are commonly found in rural areas. The tubers can be boiled or stir-fried, and they are used to make soups that never get boring. The vertical growths are fed to pigs and are excellent for their growth. However, “búp khoai” (except for the variety called “khoai đốm,” which is very itchy and rarely used) is the part that, when fermented, produces a delicious soup with the distinctive flavors of the countryside.

Potatoes are usually planted from the 11th month of the lunar calendar of the previous year to May of the following year when they are harvested. The period from potato sprouting until mid-April is the time when the potatoes grow and bear children. It’s not advisable to pick potato buds during this time as they won’t taste good and lack nutritional value. Only in early May, a week or two before harvesting, are the buds picked, allowing the potatoes to focus their nutrients on growing big and plump. To make “búp khoai kho” that is both sweet and non-itchy, meticulous and careful preparation is required from harvesting to cooking. The experience of picking the buds involves selecting tightly coiled buds, bringing them home to spread out in the sun until they turn slightly pale (usually picked early in the morning and sun-dried at noon for cooking in the evening).


Prepared potato buds before fermentation (Photo: Collected)

Preparing this delicious rustic dish also requires some attention to detail, as improper handling can lead to itchiness. The buds need to be tightly coiled before being sun-dried. Before cooking, a layer of field crab, with its apron and gills removed, is spread on top. Two crossed bamboo sticks are placed on the rim of the pot to prevent the buds from floating when boiling. A tasty soy sauce is diluted with water and poured onto the arranged buds, and then the pot is put on the heat. When boiling, pay attention to keeping the flame low and letting it simmer gently. Absolutely do not stir with chopsticks. During boiling, if the water runs out, use more diluted soy sauce with a bit of pork fat and occasionally ladle it onto the buds. Depending on the size of the soup pot and the quantity of buds, one or two vertically fermented potatoes, already roasted and cleaned of peel and seeds, can be added to the soup and cooked until dry. At this point, it’s possible to check the saltiness with a chopstick; if needed, adjust to taste. When eating, remove the bamboo sticks, and using chopsticks, carefully lift each potato bud onto a bowl. They appear intact on the outside but are tender inside, emitting a fragrant aroma of bamboo, crab, the sweetness of soy sauce, and the distinctive flavor of field potatoes. It’s an unforgettable experience. In addition to cooking with crab, “búp khoai” can also be cooked with pork ribs, bringing a rich and fatty flavor to the dish.

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Potato buds can also be cooked with pork ribs, creating a delicious soup (Photo: Collected)

Culinary experiences are sometimes not just about food; the flavors of these dishes also serve as a thread connecting us to our homeland, our roots, and our families. While today, people are exposed to countless delicious, modern, and colorful dishes, the simple and rustic dishes of the countryside can still make us appreciate the goodness of everyday ingredients. If you ever visit Thanh Thuy (Phu Tho), you should try “búp khoai kho” to experience the delicious taste of this rustic dish. It may be an unfamiliar dish for many tourists, but it is undoubtedly an unforgettable delicacy when you visit the Ancestral Land.